PHILADELPHIA -- The plush green practice fields at the Eagles' immaculate $37 million training facility, just across Broad Street from the decrepit Vet, are surrounded by a thick hedge and a tall, black, iron fence. But in places, fans can peek through and get a glimpse of the team that, come January, may make people forget all about the 76ers.

Late last week, a few fans stopped by to watch the Eagles offense work on its two-minute drill. Stuck at midfield, quarterback Donovan McNabb broke the huddle and was striding confidently to the line of scrimmage when, from behind the bushes, an anonymous voice cackled: "Hey McNabb! Youse better trow dat ball buddy!"

Ah yes ... you can take the fans outta the Vet, but you can't take the Vet outta the fans.

One thing you learn rather quickly in Philly, however, is not to challenge McNabb. (A few weeks ago I watched him work out in 105-degree heat in Phoenix, and he pushed a group of younger upstarts so hard they ended up yakking behind the goal posts.) So, as if on cue, McNabb drove the offense down the field and hit free-agent wideout James Thrash with a 15-yard TD pass with :05 left on the clock. This pass was delivered with the kind of gentle touch you normally see in an egg-tossing contest. But in an earlier practice McNabb split three defenders and hit Thrash on a slant pattern with a bullet that had enough velocity to dent a tank.

As he sipped Diet Cokes in his office overlooking the field after practice, Philly coach Andy Reid and I spoke mostly about writing (Reid is a prolific scribe, working on his journal every day) before the topic of McNabb's cannon arm came up. Reid describes those throws like this: "Thhppppt!!" You know, like the sizzle that comes off a 100-mph fastball -- or a cheesesteak. And he says the only other time he saw a quarterback with that kind of gun was a few years ago when an angry Brett Favre threw a 25-yard pass so hard it popped a wideout's knuckle out of its socket.

In this latest minicamp, Reid had the Eagles working on the basics of their scheme for the N.Y. Giants, who beat them three times last year -- something that keeps McNabb up at night. So perhaps there was more incentive for the QB than just the fan with the big mouth. (By the way, running back Duce Staley, who missed most of last season with a foot injury, looks like his rehab is right on schedule.)

As always, McNabb was nonplussed by the heat, the guy on the street and the team the Eagles can't seem to beat. After practice he chilled in front of his locker, which features a Syracuse ball and a towel from the Pro Bowl, while listening to '80s hip-hop and signing helmets and balls for teammates. Down the hall from the locker room, which is big enough to practice punts in, McNabb's picture hangs in a long line of photos honoring Philly Pro Bowl players. (This facility is state-of-the-art, except for one tiny thing: You could rent an apartment with a balcony across the street and pick off every single one of the team's plays. "Okay, Mr. Snyder, I just need a check for the first and last month's rent and a small doggie security deposit and you can move right in!")

While checking out some of the players -- like one of my all-time faves, Jerome Brown -- and photos (that dude Bill Bradley, a safety from the '70s, used to sport the same kinda sweet afro my brother Greg had in seventh grade), I heard several voices speaking Spanish. It turned out to be a very friendly TV crew from Mexico City, in town covering the NBA Finals, who had come over from the F.U. Center to grab some futbol interviews. I watched as my new buds taped a TV chat with Philly line coach Juan Castillo completely in Spanish. (I couldn't follow it at all. I speak fluent espn, but not a lick of espanol.) Still, it was one of those moments when it seems like the whole world is shrinking right before your very eyes.

Later, my new amigos asked me, "Will the Eagles win many games this year?"

"Yes," I said, "mucho, mucho games."

David Fleming is a senior writer for ESPN The Magazine. E-mail flemfile@aol.com.